MAC MAKE-UP ARTIST GUEST

We had two girls who worked on the MAC Make-up team for London Fashion week. They told us about back stage dramas, all the do's and don't's, tips and tricks such as always carry sellotape to remove glitter quickly! Listening to all of their experienced was amazing and really motivating!

One girl then produced one of the looks they had to create for a collections during London Fashion week which was also great! She did it so quickly yet perfectly!

 

 

CLASSIC SHAPES/SILHOUETTES

Section hair around the front evenly (pin bottom section out of the way for now) brush all back and crimp root sections but leaving top layer to straighten and so it can be smoothed out and remove any kinks, back comb smoothed out front layer. With a dressing out comb, comb into desired height, shape ensuring not to brush out any volume, pull back gently twist near the top still keeping symmetrical shape and grip into place using special technique. Split the bottom section into two parts down middle, the side section opposite to twist pull across head horizontally and grip in criss-cross formation to hold securely. With other half back comb inside to help create volume and be easier to shape, roll over to meet the top twist to create one large roll (French Pleat) round the back of the head, grip securely once smooth and even and use pins to hide an lumps or other grips. Finally hairspray hands and gently smooth over final design to flatten any fly away hairs to produce a perfect symmetrical silhouette as you want a perfect shape from every angle for photographs. 

 

LIPS

Use a toothbrush if needed to softly exfoliate the lips for prep followed by lip balm. Secondly sharpen the chosen lip pencil to clean and to make easier to use, then line the lip on either the natural inner lip line (darker) or the outer lip line (lighter) depending on whether you want the lip to be fuller, thinner, be a certain shape, have a certain cupid bow etc, if it goes wrong it is easier wiped off, this is why we pencil first, to get perfect symmetrical shape. Next colour in with the pencil a little bit as a base then with the chosen lip colour fill in the lip not exceeding the line. If wanting to you can use a tone lighter to highlight lip in the middle to create ombre effect which also enlarges, apply gloss, powder, use highlighter on top and underneath the lips to pull out the lip more etc. For smaller lips dark, matte colours tend to make lips look smaller and pinch and stick with lighter colours.

 

ACCESSORIES

Brush hair back and leave out fringes if needed. At temples leave out square sections of hair to be used later. Pull all hair back into a ponytail shape but instead roll it upward from the bottom and secure with grips and pins in the centre at the top of the roll. If wanting to add fabric or head band feed it through the hole of the roll and tie around top of the head into a bow. with pins, hide the holes on either side of the roll in a textures organic messy fashion. Add any jewellery, nets, jewels etc to the large roll and once decorated, with the side sections left out, either twist or plait or simply wrap across over the top of the roll to finish off and also hide any grips, pins, edges of decorations.

 

EYESHAPES / LINERS

LINERS-following the bottom outer line of the eye, draw line with pencil first onto eye that meets a line draw from the centre of the top eye lid lash line outwards, this create a triangle. This 'flick' can be drawn into any shape whether it is small, large, straight, flicky etc. It is then filled in with a liquid/cream liner so it holds better. Then the rest of the eye is lined, the top lid complete the line into the inner corner however thick it id needed for the look. You can also line in the waterline or under the waterline depending on how 'cat-eyed' the look is. This can be done in any colour and if you use a white or preferably beige toned eyeliner in the water line it appears to make the eye look larger.

EYESHAPES-similarly to eyeliner, when creating a smoky eye with the darker colours apply in areas you would with the eyeliner flick, gradually getting lighter tones as you get to the inner eye and eyebrow. To make the lid look rounder and larger blend the darkest colour into the crease on the eye lid/socket into the inner eye to create an outline. Use small rounded brushes for eye-shadows/creams as then you have more control over the small surface area. You can also just use one light colour to cover just the lid to make the lid look larger by in a way highlighting it, you could then add a darker shade to only the crease of the eyelid to make it rounder whereas the smoky eye creates a elongated cat eye effect.

NEW SEASON HAIR AND MAKE-UP STYLING

After looking through the collections for Autumn/Winter 2014/15 I chose two collections that stood out most to me. I have also chosen a few images from both collections.

ALICE AND OLIVIA 



As the collection is rather dark and mysterious the hair and makeup has been styled very similarly. The base is pale and ghostly to contrast with the dark brows, thick black and heavy eyeliner and lashes. The majority of the images consist of dark berry, reds, purples and a few pale mauve lip tones. The hair goes well with the backdrop as it looks as though the models have been sleeping in bushes as the hair is styled with large brush out and back combed curls, centre parted, flat on top and hugely voluminous on the mid-length to ends.

If I were to have done the hair and make-up, this is how I would have designed it.

ASHISH

This collection is incredibly girly with the majority of each piece of clothing having some sort of frill, netting, glitter, sequin, pink, diamonte etc on it. The hair has been styled as though the models are at prom, with tiaras sat on a crimped, curled or waved up/down do. The make-up is also very prom but child-like as every feature is exaggerated with colour. The eyes are pink or silver with big pink blushed cheeks and different tones of pink lipstick ranging from light to dark. The overall make-up looks have been topped off with shimmers and glitters to give it that extra link to the clothing.

If I were to have done the hair and make-up, this is how I would have designed it.

TEXTURE

CRIMPING-comb through all hair, take thin sections wide enough to fit into crimper at a time, hold 90 degrees away from head upright, start to crimp hair from root working down the length of the hair, hold heat on hair for a few sections depending on how crimped you wish it to be.

SCRUNCHING-with a diffuser attached to a hair dryer, the aim is to create tousled hair. On damp not wet hair with an appropriate amount of mousse, not too much it goes sticky and crispy, or sea salt spray, gather hair into diffuser and gently rub into scalp to dry hair into waves.

With crimpers use appropriate heat depending on hair quality and do not get too close to root of hair in order not to burn clients' scalp, use comb to protect head. Be careful when scrunching hair not to keep hairdryer on section of hair/head for too long to prevent burning of scalp and hair, also be careful not to get hair knotted in hairdryer, also move the clients head around to prevent blood rush etc.

 

NATURAL BEAUTY HAIR

After washing the hair and scrunching it dry creating some texture and volume, get large barrelled tongs and start to curl the mid-length to ends of the hair. There is a mixture of directions in which you can do this; curls going flicking away from the face towards the back of the head is more 60's/70's, curls coming in toward the face is softer and shapes the face more, or to make it even more natural you can alternate the curls in a range of directions.